Big Wave Surfing

In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 (6.2 m to 15.5 m) feet below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. They may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface for a breath of air before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20-50 feet can be strong enough to rupture one’s eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or even the floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death.

One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held down by two or more consecutive waves without the chance to reach the surface for air. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult which is why it is important to know how to swim out of these situations.

Despite these hazards, very few big-wave surfers have ever died in the practice of the sport, with the notable exceptions of Mark Foo, who died surfing Mavericks on December 23rd, 1994, Donnie Solomon, who died exactly a year later at Waimea Bay, and Todd Chesser who died at Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu on February 14th, 1997. A possible explanation for the relatively low fatality rate is experience; most big-wave surfers are highly skilled in the water and have likely trained themselves to handle the difficult conditions.

Rescue at Sunset Beach

Paul Smith is a manger at Cholo’s Mexican Restaurant and teaches Yoga. His classes range from 30 – 60 people. Paul is originally from California, where he surfed in places like Mavericks. He has lived on the North Shore of Oahu for 20 years now. Here’s his story.

That Tuesday after my class I drove to Sunset Beach. It was good surf. There were about four or five guys paddling out when I got there so rather than follow the crowd I ran down shore to paddle out form Mothers Beach through the inside surf was about four to six feet ( 10 – 15’ faces) about 2/3 of the way out. I see this guy floating on his board (to the left).

 

At first, I didn’t think anything of it. You know, maybe he just got a long ride in and was kinda just resting. Then I saw a wave hit him and he got knocked off his board. At this point I was still about 50-60 yards away and I was thinking this guy doesn’t know what’s up. His board was floating in front of him and if he wasn’t careful it was going to hit him. I hollered “Hey man watch out for your board!” and then a third wave broke right on him and took him down. The wave tumbled him to the inside. That’s when I realized something was definitely wrong and this guy needed help. I paddled after him trying to get to his board which was tumbling with him attached to the leash.

When I got there he was still under so I reached down and pulled him out. He was all purple in the face. There was foam coming out of his mouth and it was obvious that he had taken in a lot of water. Looking up, I decided to paddle him across the inside towards the lifeguard tower. I needed to get some help and that was the quickest way. So I tried to put him on his back on his board, but he kept falling off. So I laid him face down and started moving him towards help. I was doing everything I could to get attention: yelling, waving my arms, but we were still a long ways from the tower. Then I could see Kyle the lifeguard in the tower, sitting up. But he hadn’t seen us yet. A couple of surfers paddled to us and asked what they could do to help. So I asked them to yell for help with me to get the tower’s attention.

Then another guy helped me by putting two boards together and getting the victim (Peter) on his back. We checked for a pulse, but couldn’t find it. At this point I could see the lifeguards were on the way, so I started yelling at Peter to hang on help was coming. By now it had been several minutes before anyone else saw us and helped so he was like my kid, you know? I couldn’t let him die. By this time Kyle was on his way with the paddle board. I thought I could paddle Peter in on it, but he fell off the board again. Kyle took over at this point and laid Peter face up on the paddleboard. Then Kyle lay on top of Peter and with the help of the other guys in the water got him to shore. When they got him to shore several surfers on the beach helped Kyle Pao carry Peter to the tower, where the lifeguards immediately began CPR. The lifeguards on duty were Kerry Atwood, Tom Jenny, Victor Marcal, Matt Sack and Dave Yester.

Peter was barely showing any signs of life, it looked as if he had been under water too long and might not make it; the guards did not give up. Everyone kept assisting with CPR and getting the water out of his lungs and breathing life back into him. Finally the EMT’s arrived with the ambulance and took over. The medics hooked Peter up to the machines and found a slight pulse. Peter was taken to Wahiawa General Hospital where the doctors did all they could – the waiting game started. Over the next day or so Peter’s vital signs improved and the doctors removed the air tubes as he started breathing in rhythm. By the second day Peter could recognize his family and by the third day he was speaking clearly. Peter was lucky, thanks to Paul Smith’s determination in getting him on his board and to the lifeguards – he survived.

Box Jellyfish

Attracted to these “ocean stingers” by their pink, blue or purple appearance? Well, don’t be. By just one sting, jellyfish can turn any fun trip to the beach into a bummer. Here’s some information that’s good to know.

Jellyfish are common in all waters. The Portuguese man of war is usually noticed by its large float and bright colors. But watch out! Their tentacles may even be as long as 165 feet! Each tentacle can contain millions of cells called nematocysts, which cause the stinging sensation. They eject a barbed thread and sometimes poison. Jellyfish don’t sting you consciously, though. The barbs are released when any object comes in contact with its tentacles. Even dead jellyfish can be a menace to beachgoers. These jelly fish are common at Waimanalo beaches like Bellows
or Waimanalo Bay Beach Park.

The other jelly fish you should be aware of are the Box jellyfish. These jelly fish are seen on our south shore beaches like Waikiki, they tend to visit the beaches 7-10 days after the full moon. The Box Jelly fish are harder to see, they have little color and their float can appear clear.

Jellyfish stings hurt without a doubt. They may be serious but rarely are lethal. Symptoms usually include a burning sensation, redness and welts, and swelling of lymph nodes. In uncommon cases they may induce anaphylactic shock and require hospitalization.

If you are stung by a jellyfish alert the lifeguard on duty. They can help you with any assistance you may need. Brush off any tentacles using an object; do not use your hands, because it may still be able to sting. Spray or pour vinegar over the wound to disable stinging cells. If vinegar is not available rinse the wound with sea water or a saline solution. You can also keep the area iced to minimize discomfort.

Rip Currents

Rip currents are powerful, channeled currents of water flowing away from shore. They typically extend from the shoreline, through the surf zone, and past the line of breaking waves. Rip currents can occur at any beach with breaking waves, including the Great Lakes.

Rip currents can be killers. The United States Lifesaving Association estimates that the annual number of deaths due to rip currents on our nation’s beaches exceeds 100. Rip currents account for over 80% of rescues performed by surf beach lifeguards.

The greatest safety precaution that can be taken is to recognize the danger of rip currents and always remember to swim at beaches with lifeguards.  The United States Lifesaving Association has calculated the chance that a person will drown while attending a beach protected by USLA affiliated lifeguards at 1 in 18 million. If caught in a rip current at an unguarded beach, how you respond could make the difference between life and death.

Escaping a Rip Current

Depending on its severity, you may be able to see a rip current from the beach. Strong rip currents disrupt incoming waves and stir up sand from the ocean floor. When you’re at the beach, keep an eye out for narrow, muddy streaks in the ocean where there aren’t any waves breaking.

If you get caught up in a rip current, it’s crucial that you keep your wits about you. Your first instinct may be to swim against the current, back to shallow waters. In most cases, even if you’re a strong swimmer, this will only wear you out. The current is too strong to fight head-on.

Instead, swim sideways, parallel to the beach. This will get you out of the narrow outward current, so you can swim back in with the waves helping you along. If it’s too hard to swim sideways while you’re being dragged through the water, just wait until the current carries you past the sandbar. The water will be much calmer there, and you can get clear of the rip current before heading back in.

If caught in a rip current:

Remain calm to conserve energy and think clearly.
Never fight against the current.
Think of it like a treadmill that cannot be turned off, which you need to step to the side of.
Swim out of the current in a direction following the shoreline. When out of the current, swim at an angle–away from the current–towards shore.
If you are unable to swim out of the rip current, float or calmly tread water. When out of the current, swim towards shore.
If you are still unable to reach shore, draw attention to yourself by waving your arm and yelling for help.