Ocean Hazards

Big Wave Surfing

In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 (6.2 m to 15.5 m) feet below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. They may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface for a breath of air before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20-50 feet can be strong enough to rupture one’s eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or even the floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death.

One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held down by two or more consecutive waves without the chance to reach the surface for air. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult which is why it is important to know how to swim out of these situations.

Despite these hazards, very few big-wave surfers have ever died in the practice of the sport, with the notable exceptions of Mark Foo, who died surfing Mavericks on December 23rd, 1994, Donnie Solomon, who died exactly a year later at Waimea Bay, and Todd Chesser who died at Alligator Rock on the North Shore of Oahu on February 14th, 1997. A possible explanation for the relatively low fatality rate is experience; most big-wave surfers are highly skilled in the water and have likely trained themselves to handle the difficult conditions.

February 26, 2009 | Leave a Comment


Sun Safety

How to avoid a sunburn

Sunburn can cause more problems than just some temporary pain and redness. Over time, frequent sunburn can contribute to premature aging of the skin, and can even lead to deadly skin cancer.

By following the simple steps below, you can have fun in the sun and still protect yourself and your family from sunburn and keep your skin healthy and young looking.

The sun’s rays in Hawaii are one of the strongest in the world. Don’t ruin your vacation by getting a bad sunburn.

Here are our tips on how to avoid a sunburn.

  • Stay out of the sun completely. That’s not easy to do in Hawaii!
  • Limit outdoor activities between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. Play golf, lay in the sun, swim, etc., in the early morning or late afternoon.
  • If you must sunbathe get some sun before you visit Hawaii. The Hawaiian sun is very dangerous to pale skin.
  • Beware of cloudy days. Clouds and particulate matter in the air scatter sunlight. You can still burn even on a cloudy day.
  • Wear a good pair of sun glasses and some kind of protection — the looser the better — on your head.
  • If you are among those likely to burn, use a sun block with a SPF of 15 or greater. An ounce of sun block will effectively cover your entire body.
  • Apply sun block at least 15 to 30 minutes before venturing out into the sun and re-apply at least every two hours especially if you have been swimming or perspiring.
  • Use sun blocks with higher PFs on areas that need extra protection like the tip of your nose, your ears, the tops of your feet, and your shoulders.
  • Do not use sun block on your lips. Instead, use only sun protection products designed specifically for lips.
  • Protect your children. Keep them from excessive sun exposure when the sun is strongest and apply sunscreen liberally and frequently to children 6 months of age and older.
  • Do not use sunscreen on children under 6 months of age. Parents with children under 6 months of age should severely limit their children’s sun exposure.

February 26, 2009 | Leave a Comment